I almost died today. In a cave nestled a small reef platform on a raw and isolated bit of coast miles away from civilisation. I sat and waited studying, timing the sets watching the movement of the water. For almost an hour I sat and watched as the flat rock pan filled up and drained out. Waves, 6 – 8 feet, 12 seconds apart coming in sets of 9, four smaller ones, two ridable and three more each one smaller than the last; four minute lull and repeat. As the ninth wave of the set rolled up one over I...